Strings

Strings come in many different flavors, and a few choices in alloy and windings. First and foremost, strings are cheap compared to the positive results they provide, I can't believe it when I hear people saying, "their strings lasted for several weeks or months". However, as earlier mentioned in the General Tips area, how often you should change your strings depends on where and how much you play your instrument. There is no formula set in stone...and it varies from player to player. Also be aware, that there are only a few companies in the US that actually produce and manufacture strings.

There are three basic sets of stings; Nickel, Stainless, and Half rounds. Nickel, is probably the most widely used, followed by Stainless, and then Half Rounds. *ALL PLAIN STRINGS ARE THE SAME FROM MAJOR STRING PRODUCERS. THE MAJOR DIFFERENCES ARE ONLY IN THE WOUND STRINGS. When installing a new set or string, make sure that it's as straight as possible when running over the roller nut and through the tuning peg hole. As the string winds around the tuning post, it will wrap around the tuning post, making it as straight as possible running from the changer finger over the roller nut and into the tuning post.

Plain Strings

*The exception of all plain strings being the same, is that string companies increase or decrease the length of the winding at the ball end and IF they check the spool of wire for tinsel strength to assure it's truly the gauge it's supposed to be before it becomes a completed string. These are often referred to as, PG on the label. This will help minimize string breakage because they will exceed the normal standards for the higher, plain strings used on a pedal steel. You can wipe your strings down all you like, and that won't hurt, but you can not reverse the metal fatigue factor.

The .011 gauge string, typically used for the 3rd string on the E9th, was never designed to raise to the pitch that we ask it to on a steel guitar. Metal fatigue, from string stretch due to raising and lowering it’s pitch, will also expedite the shorter life of the string. When a string reaches this state, it will have intonation problems and sound issues. I change my .011, (3rd string on E9th) every third night of playing. This is regardless of whether I've recorded two songs in the studio, played a two hour concert, or four hour club date during that day. For me, they will break at the worst time, so I always eliminate this risk, and I do this procedure faithfully.

Wound Strings

In short, Nickel wound strings tend to produce a little warmer tone. Stainless is brighter, and will last longer because the alloy is a tougher material. Half Rounds are used by players who do not like the bar slide sound on strings. So the trade off is this, Nickel sets will provide new string sound, but will soon loose this property. Cleaning your strings can slow this down somewhat. Stainless, provides a brighter tone, and will stay brighter sounding longer because the alloy in the winding is a tougher material. However, some players prefer not to use stainless because they sound too bright, and also causes the bar noise to be amplified. Also, Stainless is a tougher alloy, and can cause wear at the changer, causing a groove to form. This can be neutralized by using gritted paper, about the same grit as a matchbook striker, to carefully remove this wear path in the changer. Just remember, when you do this, you are removing material from you changer. Also, some player’s hands perspire more than others, and this can also affect the string life.

Most string manufacturers produce their strings for 6 string guitar players, which represents the majority of their pre-packaged string set sales. These manufacturers will use a core (that's the base platform that a wound string is built on) and then use a particular gauge of wire to wind the string. The degree of tension placed on the machine when the winding is being applied to the core can also vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. When steel players change to a different brand and manufacture of strings, they may find that they have to adjust their pedal travel to compensate for these differences. I always recommend settling on ONE BRAND OF STRINGS, particularly addressing the wound strings in these sets. By doing this, you’re remaining consistent with your strings when changing them and will not require unnecessary pedal adjustments. Some players may purchase a different brand/set of strings, and never notice that the new set contains different plain and or wound strings for particular strings in the set they’re accustomed to using from their previous brand.

Bottom line: Change your strings often, and try to select and settle on one brand that will always provide you consistency and the sound you prefer. Take the extra effort to find your selected brand. It is often said that strings are strings, but by providing the above information, I hope you can now see that there are some differences that can affect your instrument.

Note: Jerry worked as General Manager for the S.I.T. String Company, and was responsible for developing the Buddy Emmons pedal steel sets from 1982-1989.

Disclaimer: Please be aware that any modifications or repairs may void your warranty with the manufacturer of your instrument and that we can not be held liable for these procedures performed. The intent of these topics is to serve as a guideline in obtaining answers to your questions. For specific questions about your Warranty with Performance Steel Guitar , LLC please contact our corporate offices. Only Authorized Dealers for Performance Steel Guitar , LLC are qualified to service and repair your Performance Product.

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